Review: Metolius Master Cams

Like it or not, micro-cams are inherently unsettling. Trusting something marble-sized to stop thousands of pounds of force takes some pretty big marbles of your own, so when you’re up above that 1/2-inch placement, you want the absolute best plugged into the rock. I tested the Metolius Master Cams in Mill Creek, and after my first 20-foot fall on the #2 piece, I was sold. These pieces offer great thin-crack protection with sizes from 00 to 6, from tiny aid pieces to big rattly fingers. Featuring flexible single stems, ultra-narrow head sizes, and a comfortable molded thumb catch, these cams didn’t feel as flimsy as some of those “other” thin-crack pieces. The trigger is a little stiffer than other micros, so remember to keep the cams clean and lubed properly. Now when I venture up above my pint-sized gear, I can think purely about the moves and not about my placement. Available at Northern Lights and Barrel Mountaineering. $60; metioliusclimbing.com.