The Wall with No Name

Ice Climbing, Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman

The Wall with No Name

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Joe Josephson

A mile of Hyalite classics.

When local legends Jack Tackle and Alex Lowe were establishing classic climbs in Hyalite 30 years ago, they didn’t feel like most lines on this crag even warranted naming, referring to them as Unnamed #1, #2, #3, and so on. It wasn’t until my guidebook Winter Dance that the overlooked lines turned into something of a trade route. Today, Unnamed Wall is one of Hyalite’s most popular destinations, with 30+ routes gracing this mile-long wall extending from Elevator Shaft north to the spicy mixed lines above the parking lot.

The Unnamed Wall is located on the sunny side (west) of Hyalite Canyon. Lead climbing is required as there is no easy walk-around for top-ropes.

From the Grotto Falls trailhead, hike a short distance and follow the first trail to the right (west) and down to the creek. Cross the creek and traverse right before passing the tree-choked gully and angling left up a wide drainage. Follow the right side of the talus slope to arrive at the cliff band. Approach times vary depending on snow conditions, but allow 25-45 minutes.

The Routes
The Bozeman Ice Fest runs clinics on Unnamed Wall, but activity is limited to a few condition-dependent routes during the dates of the festival, December 6-10 this year. Clinics will generally be held from The Thrill is Gone left to Itchy and Scratchy Show, or from The Good Looking One right to Magically Delicious. This ensures everyone has access to plenty of great routes during the Fest. The new two-day rescue clinic will take up shop at The Fat One.

The trend toward “dry routes” started across the canyon around G1 and the Amphitheater, before making its way to the steep andesite of Unnamed Wall. New bolted routes have appeared near Elevator Shaft, The Fat One, and Sharp-Dressed Man. Many of these are quite moderate, ranging from M4 to M6. The harder mixed routes in the Bingo Cave and farther right around Roman Candle are among the most popular mixed routes in America.

Go down the way you came.

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